Time Exposure Brow Lift Guide
Brow Bomb Processing Time: The Complete Guide
Fine brows require 3 to 5 minutes with the Brow Bomb Step 1 lifting cream, compared to 6 to 7 minutes for thick and stubborn structures.
The neutralisation (Step 2) remains fixed: 5 minutes for fine and tinted hairs, 6 minutes for dense structures. If you shorten these timings, the result won't take; if you exceed them, you'll cause dryness, breakage and skin irritations, as demonstrated by clinical studies on thioglycolate.
Understanding Brow Structure
Hair diameter determines how quickly ethanolamine thioglycolate (the active ingredient in Brow Bomb Step 1 lifting cream) penetrates. Fine brows (50-70 microns) have less tightly packed cuticles: they absorb the chemical solution 40% faster than thick hairs (90-120 microns). This morphological difference requires precise timing under cling film.
Tinted Hair
Previously tinted hairs undergo partial opening of the keratin scales. Their damaged cuticle captures the lifting cream 30 seconds faster than virgin brows.
Rebellious Structure
Rebellious or very dense structures, rich in melanin and natural lipids, resist more: they require 2 additional minutes.
Mature Hair
Porosity varies with age: after 45, hair thins and becomes porous. A mature brow, even if dense in appearance, reacts like a fine structure.
Before applying the lifting cream, assess the actual typology by testing thickness with tweezers, shine (smooth hair = closed cuticle = longer time) and elasticity to the touch.
For Fine Hairs: Instructions
Lifting Cream (3-5 minutes)
Very fine, light or over-plucked brows tolerate 3 to 5 minutes maximum of Brow Bomb Step 1 lifting cream. Beyond this, keratin destructures and the hair loses its natural tone, according to manufacturer Beautiful Brows and Lashes data. Apply a translucent layer at the root only for vertical lift; cover the entire hair to soften rigid structures.
Brush the brows towards the final direction with a disposable spoolie coated with Bonding Serum. The cling film covers the hairs to stabilise moisture and activate body heat. At 2 minutes 30, check suppleness: a correctly treated hair bends at 90° without resistance. Never exceed 5 minutes even if the result seems light; the second application (neutraliser) will amplify the setting.
Neutralising Lotion (5 minutes)
The sodium bromate contained in Step 2 neutralising lotion closes the cuticles and stabilises the disulphide bonds. On fine hairs, 5 minutes suffice to fix the structure durably. Apply the lotion exactly where the lifting cream was deposited, without spreading onto the skin. Neutralisation works even on poorly reactive brows: do not extend beyond 6 minutes, the gain will be nil.
For Thick Structures: Adapted Timing
Healthy and Dense Structures (6-7 minutes)
Full brows, not weakened by years of wax or tweezers, require 6 to 7 minutes of lifting cream. These hairs contain more native keratin and their overlapping cuticles slow chemical penetration. The Brow Bomb formula enriched with cocoa butter and plant proteins compensates for this resistance without aggression.
Gently massage the sachet before opening to homogenise the texture. Deposit an opaque layer covering each hair entirely, from base to tip. The protective film creates a mini hot chamber accelerating the reaction by 15%. At 5 minutes, check malleability: if the hair remains rigid, grant 90 additional seconds.
Rebellious or Coarse Brows (7 minutes max)
Very thick structures, with natural spiral or genetically dense, reach the upper limit: 7 minutes. Beyond this, even on healthy hair, the risk of skin irritation and hair drying becomes real according to studies on ethanolamine thioglycolate. These brows often display dark pigmentation, a sign of high melanin concentration that slows chemical transformation.
Neutralisation (6 minutes)
Neutralisation remains fixed at 6 minutes for all thick structures. This uniform timing guarantees complete scale closure without weighing down the protocol.
What Can Modify Treatment Duration
Ambient Temperature
A treatment room heated to 24-26°C accelerates the thioglycolate chemical reaction by 15%. Reduce processing time by 30 seconds if temperature exceeds 25°C. Conversely, an air-conditioned space below 20°C slows penetration: add 1 minute for thick hairs.
Humidity
Hygrometry also plays a role: dry air (< 40%) decreases product efficacy, a humid environment (> 70%) boosts it.
Colouring History
Brows tinted within 2 weeks preceding lamination present partially opened cuticles. Systematically reduce Step 1 processing time by 1 minute, regardless of structure. If Hybrid Dye colouring is planned after Brow Bomb, shorten its duration to 1-3 minutes maximum.
Chemical Treatments
Refrain from renewing treatment before 8 weeks if done less than 6 weeks ago. Clients using retinol, AHA/BHA acids or following Roaccutane treatment display hypersensitive skin and hairs: reduce each step by 2 minutes.
EU Regulatory Compliance: Brow Bomb Beautiful Brows and Lashes complies with EU Regulation 1223/2009. Ethanolamine thioglycolate is authorised up to 11% for professional use, pH 7 to 9.5. CPNP registered and GMP certified.
Common Mistakes and How to Correct Them
Under-Treatment: Non-Existent Result
A brow from which cream is removed after 2 minutes retains its initial shape. Barely opened cuticles resume their natural position from rinsing. Correction: Avoid applying a second coat immediately. Schedule a corrective appointment 48 hours later, with timing extended by 1 minute.
Wait 48hOver-Treatment: Dry/Brittle Hairs
Exceeding 8 minutes causes partial destruction of disulphide bridges. The hair becomes porous, matt, rough. Brows lose their natural hold and drop in 10 days. Correction: No immediate fix. Prescribe daily castor oil baths for 3 weeks and prohibit new lamination before 3 months.
Oil TreatmentSkin Irritation
Lifting cream overflow combined with excessive time triggers redness and tingling. Correction: Immediately remove with lukewarm water and apply a compress soaked in physiological serum.
Rinse ImmediatelyVisual Control During Processing
- Mid-Process Suppleness Test: At half the planned timing (e.g., 3 minutes), lift a corner of the cling film. Remove a hair with tweezers and assess its flexibility: if it bends at 90° without breaking, transformation is progressing correctly. If it stretches limply, rinse immediately.
- Immediate Warning Signs: Remove if client feels burning, itching or if skin reddens. Strong ammonia odour or hairs whitening/yellowing indicate excessive reaction.
- Final Validation: Before applying Step 2, brush brows in final direction. They must adopt the shape instantly and remain for 5 seconds without dropping. If not, extend Step 1 by 1 minute.
Safety & Professional Regulation
⚠️ Absolute Contraindications
- Allergy: Thioglycolate allergy detected by patch test.
- Skin Lesions: Active eczema, psoriasis, or cuts in the periorbital area.
- Infection: Bacterial or viral conjunctivitis.
- Medication: Active or recent (< 6 months) Roaccutane treatment.
Pregnancy and Breastfeeding: The precautionary principle applies. Beautiful Brows and Lashes recommends avoiding lamination during the first trimester of pregnancy and breastfeeding due to potential reproductive risks.
Mandatory Patch Test: Ethanolamine thioglycolate can cause allergic contact dermatitis in 2 to 5% of users. Apply a drop of Step 1 in the elbow crease or behind the ear 48 to 72 hours before the session.
Comparison: Brow Bomb vs Other Protocols
| Criteria | Brow Bomb (Beautiful Brows) | Competing Protocols |
|---|---|---|
| Plastic Film | Optional, visual monitoring privileged | Mandatory with occlusion |
| Fine brow timing | 3-5 min Step 1, 5 min Step 2 | 4-6 min Step 1, 5-7 min Step 2 |
| Thick brow timing | 6-7 min Step 1, 6 min Step 2 | 7-9 min Step 1, 6-8 min Step 2 |
| EU 1223/2009 compliance | CPNP certified, GMP | Variable by brand |
| Skin irritations | 2.3% (internal study) | 5-8% (average literature) |
| Nourishing actives | Cocoa butter, niacinamide, biotin | Variable |
Pricing and Commercial Positioning
The Brow Bomb protocol positions itself as a premium treatment. Average pricing in the UK varies depending on region:
The price includes the complete protocol (30-40 min), Beautiful Brows and Lashes products, personalised advice and aftercare sheet. Brow tinting (optional) adds £10-15 to the base price. Salons offer loyalty packages: 3 sessions spaced 7-8 weeks apart for £105-160 (10-20% discount).
Necessary Equipment
Mandatory: Brow Bomb kit (lotions, Glue Bomb, Nourishing Oil, Cleanser), fine brushes, disposable spoolies, cotton pads, double timer, nitrile gloves, wall thermometer/hygrometer, fine tweezers.
Optional: Hybrid Dye, magnifying lamp, UV steriliser.
Male brows require extended timing: 6-7 minutes lifting cream, 7-8 minutes fixing lotion. Favour a matt and natural finish by frequently omitting tinting. Lifting lotion dose increases by 10-15% on the brow head. The result aims for discipline without trace of aesthetic treatment.
Glossary
| Term | Definition |
|---|---|
| Brow Bomb | Kit and brow lamination protocol developed by Beautiful Brows and Lashes. |
| Ethanolamine thioglycolate | Chemical reducing agent contained in Step 1, breaks keratin disulphide bonds. |
| Sodium bromate | Neutralising oxidant contained in Step 2, closes cuticles and fixes new shape. |
| Glue Bomb | Transparent Bonding Serum adhesive gel maintaining hairs during treatment. |
| Visual monitoring | Continuous surveillance of hair reaction during treatment, key technique of film-free protocol. |