Eyebrow mapping before lamination
Mapping and Brow Architecture Before Lifting
- Mapping structures the brow outline before a brow lift. A professional locates three anatomical points (start, arch, end) using a pre-inked string or calipers. These markers guide the upward brushing and maintain the hairs during the application of the lifting lotion.
- Checking with parallel horizontal lines avoids visual imbalances accentuated by the lift. The 2/3 rule defines the proportion between the ascending and descending parts of the brow.
What is Brow Mapping?
Mapping refers to a geometric outline drawn prior to a brow lift. Your practitioner draws anatomical markers that will guide the hair restructuring during the upward brushing and setting with the permanent lotion. Without this template, the lift risks accentuating natural asymmetry instead of erasing it. This protocol takes into account face morphology, natural brow density, and facial asymmetry.
The Three Anatomical Markers
Every brow is built around three key points.
Start Point
Vertical alignment between the wing of the nose and the inner corner of the eye. A start point that is too close creates a severe look, while one that is too far apart artificially widens the face.
Apex (Arch)
Diagonal projection from the wing of the nose through the centre of the iris, marking the peak of the curve. The apex structures the natural arch and marks the transition between the ascending and descending lines.
End Point
Diagonal from the wing of the nose to the outer corner of the eye, delimiting the end of the brow.
Professional Tools
The pre-inked string remains the reference tool. Your beautician holds the string taut between the nose wing and the facial marker, then marks the point where the string intersects the brow with a pencil. This constant tension guarantees identical angulation between both brows.
The plexiglass measuring calipers (or dividers) with four branches standardise the tracing thanks to fixed markers. The adjustable branches adapt to the width of the face and maintain symmetry. Disposable graduated stickers offer a hygienic alternative with pre-printed graduations. The mapping pencil temporarily marks the points identified by the string or calipers, then wipes off after the service.
Three-Point Method
This brow lamination technique follows a reproducible sequence.
Trace the Start
The string is positioned on the side of the nostril and stretched diagonally towards the inner corner of the eye.
Identify the Peak
The string starts again from the nose wing and passes through the centre of the iris, marking the highest point of the brow. An apex that is too low flattens the brow; an apex that is too high creates an artificial arched effect.
Delimit the End
The string is positioned a third time from the nose wing to the outer corner of the eye.
Connect
A pencil line connects the three points and serves as a template during the upward brushing and application of the brow lift glue.
Advanced Horizontal Line Technique
Experienced professionals add horizontal lines to check symmetry with millimetric precision.
- Midline of the face: This central vertical line divides the face into two symmetrical halves and verifies that both brows start at the same distance from the central axis.
- Inter-brow height: A horizontal line passes through the start point of both brows, which must sit on this same line.
- Parallelism: Three horizontal lines connect the start points, the apexes, and the end points respectively, and must remain parallel to each other.
A lack of parallelism signals an asymmetry to be corrected before applying the lifting lotion. Your practitioner adjusts the marked points by micro-movements until perfect horizontal alignment is achieved.
The 2/3 Rule
Two-thirds of the total brow length, measured from the start point, form an ascending line that rises gradually to the apex. The last third, after the apex, descends towards the end point. This proportion creates visual balance: a brow that is too long weighs down the gaze, while a brow that is too short narrows it.
The brow lift visually amplifies the ascending part of the brow. Mapping must anticipate this lifting effect by verifying that the ascending two-thirds respect the natural curvature. The rule adapts according to brow density: a sparse brow cannot force an artificial ratio beyond its natural base.
Cross-Checking Symmetry
Verification compares both brows according to several criteria.
- Height comparison: Measurement of the vertical distance between the start point of each brow and a horizontal reference line (bottom of the nose).
- Measurement from the midline: The horizontal distance between the start point of each brow and the central axis of the face must be equivalent.
- Identification of natural asymmetries: Most faces present slight asymmetry between the two halves.
- Correction or compensation: Adjustment of the outline to balance heights and lengths, reducing the asymmetry effect amplified by the vertical brushing of the brow lift.
Mapping does not redraw a non-existent brow but structures existing hairs by visually compensating for these imbalances.
Adaptation According to Morphology
Mapping is personalised according to facial morphology and hair characteristics.
- Sparse brows: The outline respects the area where hairs are naturally present. The practitioner limits the end point to the actual length of the brow.
- Bushy brows: Mapping structures the orientation of the hairs without redrawing an artificial shape. Thick and unruly hairs benefit from geometric tracing to guide their upward brushing.
- Facial asymmetry: Your practitioner adjusts the outline to visually balance the two halves of the face. A slightly higher brow will be mapped with a lowered start point to compensate for the natural gap.
- Natural curvature: Mapping follows the natural implantation of the hair. Forcing a non-existent curve creates an artificial result after the brow lift.
Why Map Before Lifting?
Mapping anticipates the lifting effect of the brow lift. Upward brushing sweeps hairs upwards, glue flattens them vertically onto the skin/pad, and lifting lotion softens keratin to restructure the hair. Without a prior outline, this combination amplifies natural asymmetries instead of correcting them.
Fixing hairs according to a precise geometric template guarantees a clean and symmetrical result. The reproducibility of the result between sessions relies on mapping. Your client regains the same brow line at each brow lift renewal.
Common Mistakes
Misplaced Start Point
A point that is too far apart artificially widens the gap between brows; a point that is too close creates a severe effect. Your practitioner checks for strict vertical alignment from the nose wing.
Apex Off-Centre from Iris
An offset apex unbalances the proportion between the ascending and descending lines. The projection from the nose wing must cross the centre of the iris.
Non-Parallel Lines
Horizontal lines that are not parallel signal a symmetry defect between the two brows. This imbalance becomes visible after the brow lift.
Imprecise Tracing
Blurred marking or poorly defined points compromise the final effect. Pre-inked string held under tension guarantees tracing precision.
Training and Professional Protocol
Brow lift training includes a module dedicated to brow mapping. The trainer demonstrates the string technique, verification of horizontal lines, and correction of asymmetries. Trainees practice on models before performing client services.
Certification as a specialised eye beautician validates mastery of mapping and the complete brow lift protocol. Learning time varies according to prior experience: a novice practitioner requires several supervised sessions to acquire millimetric precision.
The professional salon protocol respects a standardised sequence: facial analysis, marking reference points, cross-checking, then brow lift application. The total duration of mapping represents 5 to 10 minutes depending on the complexity of the case.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does brow mapping take in a salon?
Can natural asymmetry be corrected with mapping?
Does the mapping string leave visible marks?
Must mapping be redone at every brow lift session?
Does the 2/3 rule apply to all faces?
Which method to choose: string, calipers, or sticker?
Does brow mapping require specific training?
Glossary
| Term | Definition |
|---|---|
| Brow mapping | Geometric outline drawn prior to a brow lift that structures the anatomical markers of the brow |
| Apex | Highest point of the brow curve, situated on the diagonal projection from the nose wing through the centre of the iris |
| Pre-inked string | Measuring tool stretched between facial markers to identify key mapping points |
| 2/3 Rule | Proportion whereby two-thirds of the brow form an ascending line and one-third a descending line |
| Midline | Central vertical axis of the face serving as a reference to check inter-brow symmetry |
| Cross-checking | Control protocol comparing heights and distances of each brow |
| Plexiglass Calipers | Measuring tool with four adjustable branches maintaining outline symmetry |
| Upward brushing | Brushing hairs upwards during the brow lift, guided by the mapping |