Brow lamination guide
Brow Lamination: The Complete Professional Guide 2025
Brow Lamination: Durable Arch Restructuring
Brow lamination redesigns the brow arch by chemically restructuring each hair to achieve a brushed-up, disciplined, and fuller result. Also known as brow lift, this professional technique relies on ethanolamine thioglycolate to break the disulfide bonds of keratin, allowing rebellious hairs to be redirected, frizzy textures to be smoothed, and sparse areas to be visually filled. Unlike microblading, which implants subcutaneous pigments, lamination works exclusively on the existing hair fibre, without piercing the skin or altering the natural hair colour.
The protocol takes 45 to 60 minutes in the salon, produces an immediate visible effect, and lasts between 4 and 8 weeks depending on hair type, product quality, and adherence to aftercare instructions.
Brow lamination is exploding in 2025 as it meets the growing demand for natural, voluminous, and disciplined brows without invasive intervention. Clients are seeking a semi-permanent "woke up like this" look that structures the eyes without requiring daily makeup.
Brow Bomb Pack
Everything for lamination: Lifting Cream, Neutralising Lotion, and specific Moisturising Serum.
DISCOVER BOMBBrow lamination : Before After
Brow Lamination vs Lash Lift
Lash lift curls natural lashes upwards using a curved silicone shield. Brow lamination redirects brow hairs in a chosen direction (upwards, diagonally, or flat) to structure the arch and visually amplify density. Both techniques employ the same chemical family, but brow formulas tolerate a slightly more alkaline pH and higher viscosity adapted to thicker, textured hair.
| Criterion | Brow Lamination | Lash Lift |
|---|---|---|
| Action | Redirects and disciplines hair flat | Curls lash upwards |
| Longevity | 4 to 8 weeks | 6 to 12 weeks |
| Lifting Time | 3 to 7 mins (variable) | 3 to 7 mins (variable) |
| Product Viscosity | High (for textured hair) | Medium (for fine hair) |
| Key Accessory | Cling Film & Spoolie | Silicone Shield & Glue |
| Salon Price | £50 - £100 | £40 - £65 |
Product Composition & Active Ingredients
Beautiful Brows and Lashes products comply with European Cosmetic Regulations, are GMP certified, and registered on the CPNP. The formulas exclude animal testing and prioritise plant-based actives.
Step 1: Lifting Cream (Restructuring)
The Lifting Cream Step 1 contains Ethanolamine Thioglycolate (pH 9-9.5) which breaks the disulfide bonds of cysteine in keratin. Urea acts as a penetration enhancer to facilitate the diffusion of actives.
Nourishing actives like cocoa butter, vegetable glycerin, niacinamide (Vitamin B3), and biotin (Vitamin B8) consolidate the keratin structure during the process. Hydrolysed vegetable proteins (rice, wheat, soy) provide essential amino acids.
Step 2: Neutralising Lotion (Fixing)
The Neutralising Lotion Step 2 (pH 6-6.5) uses Sodium Bromate as an oxidising agent to reform disulfide bonds in the new configuration imposed by brushing. It neutralises residual alkalinity and sets the shape.
Panthenol (Provitamin B5) penetrates the cortex to slow hair ageing. Liquorice extract soothes the sensitive skin of the arch, while Horsetail extract remineralises the hair.
Step 3: Moisturising Serum (Hydration)
The Moisturising Serum Step 3 (pH 5-6) is a leave-on treatment rich in Aloe Vera, Arnica Montana, Panthenol, and Hyaluronic Acid. It seals the cuticle scales, restores hydration, and deposits a protective film.
Hydrolysed vegetable keratin fills gaps in the fibre. Botanical extracts (marshmallow, apricot, rosemary, chamomile) soothe the skin and prevent delayed irritation.
The Bonding Serum
The Bonding Serum is a non-toxic water-based adhesive that facilitates gluing brow hairs to the skin in the desired direction before applying the lifting cream. It maintains the brushed shape during the 3 to 7 minutes of chemical lifting.
Brow Bomb Starter Kit
The crème de la crème for lamination. Everything needed to start.
START NOWProfessional Protocol: 3 Key Steps
1. Preparation & Bonding
Cleanse with an oil-free remover. Apply Bonding Serum and immediately brush brows upwards with a disposable spoolie to create the desired shape.
2. Lifting (Restructuring)
Apply Lifting Cream Step 1 to the hairs (avoid skin if possible). Cover with cling film. Processing time: 3-4 min (very fine/tinted) to 6-7 min (coarse/thick). Remove dry.
3. Neutralisation (Fixing)
Apply Neutralising Lotion Step 2. No cling film. Time: 5 min (fine) to 6 min (thick). Remove with a damp cotton pad.
4. Tinting (Optional)
Mix the tint (Deep Black, Brown, etc.) with the developer. Apply to laminated brows. Leave on for 1 to 3 minutes only (hair absorbs very quickly after lamination).
5. Final Hydration
Apply Moisturising Serum Step 3 generously. Massage slightly. Do not rinse. Provide the aftercare sheet to the client.
Pricing, Profitability & Positioning
Brow lamination is a high-margin service, ideal for retaining a high-end clientele ready to invest every 6 to 8 weeks.
Profitability Details
Direct material costs are extremely low (£3 to £6 per client), allowing for a gross margin of 85-95% for an average client price of £60. An esthetician can generate up to £600 per day solely on this service.
GROSS MARGIN
Based on an average price of £60
Winning Strategies
- Full Eye Package: Combine Lamination + Lash Lift + Tints for an average ticket of £130+.
- Subscriptions: Course of 6 sessions (-20%) to guarantee an annual flow of £350+ per client.
- Retail Aftercare: Sell Lash Toxx Serum or Castor Oil at each service (+£35 average basket).
Grow Your Brow Business
Social Proof
Encourage satisfied clients to leave a Google review immediately after the session in exchange for a discount on their aftercare product.
Retention via Retail
A client who buys a maintenance serum returns more often because they are invested in the health of their brows.
Boost Passive Revenue
Target an attachment rate of 30 to 50% on maintenance products.
Contraindications & Safety
⚠️ Absolute Contraindications
- Eczema or Psoriasis: Active in the peri-orbital area.
- Conjunctivitis: Infectious (bacterial or viral).
- Positive Test: Reaction to patch test (redness, itching, swelling).
- Damaged Skin: Recent cuts, grazes, or burns on the arch.
Relative Contraindications & Precautions
Pregnancy & Breastfeeding
Precautionary principle. Hormonal changes can also alter the result.
Action: Abstain or GP AdviceRecent Surgery
Lasik, blepharoplasty, or face lift. Fragile scar tissues.
Action: Wait 6 weeksVery Fine Brows
Risk of chemical over-processing and breakage.
Action: Reduce timingActive Herpes
Cold sore near the area. Risk of viral spread.
Action: Wait for healingThe Patch Test: Mandatory
Ethanolamine thioglycolate can cause allergic reactions in 2-5% of the population. A patch test must be performed 48 to 72 hours before the session (crook of the elbow or behind the ear). In case of redness or itching, cancel the service.
Patch Test Kit
Detect potential allergies quickly to protect your clients and your business.
BUY NOWAftercare: The Critical 48 Hours
Disulfide bonds finish setting during the 48 hours following the treatment. Failure to follow these rules reduces longevity by 50%.
- ⛔ No Water (Shower, Pool)
- ⛔ No Steam (Sauna, Hammam)
- ⛔ No Rich Creams/Oils
- ⛔ No Brow Makeup
Brow & Lash Toxx Serum
Hydrates, nourishes, and prolongs lamination. Formula enriched with biotin and panthenol.
DISCOVERLong-Term Daily Routine
From day 3: Apply Castor Oil or Lash Toxx Serum every evening to nourish the fibre. Brush brows every morning with a clean spoolie to reset the "brushed up" effect. Use Brow Bomb Brow Glue to fix the shape if necessary.
Frequently Asked Questions
Technique & Results
How long does the result last?
Does lamination work on fine brows?
What is the difference with Microblading?
Safety & Care
Why is a patch test mandatory?
Can brows be tinted at the same time?
Can I apply makeup to my brows after?
Glossary – Brow Lamination
| Term | Definition |
|---|---|
| Brow Lamination | Professional technique for chemical restructuring of the brow. |
| Thioglycolate | Reducing agent (Step 1) that breaks hair bonds to make it malleable. |
| Sodium Bromate | Fixing agent (Step 2) that sets the hair in its new shape. |
| Bonding Serum | Water-soluble glue used to flatten hairs before lifting. |
| Spoolie | Mascara-style brush essential for daily brushing. |
| Patch Test | Mandatory skin allergy test 48h before treatment. |