The science of Brow Bomb
The science of Brow Bomb: molecular decoding and safety protocols
TECHNICAL CURRICULUM • BRITISH ENGLISH EDITION
Biochemistry of hair restructuring
Beautiful Brows and Lashes' Brow Bomb transforms brow lamination through a controlled chemical disruption of keratin. The disulphide bonds of the hair are broken by ethanolamine thioglycolate, and subsequently reformed into their new architecture by sodium bromate.
Structure of keratin
Eyebrows primarily consist of keratin, a fibrous protein organised into polypeptide chains. These chains are stabilised by three types of bonds: hydrogen bonds (weak, broken by water), salt bonds (ionic, influenced by pH), and disulphide bonds or S-S bonds (covalent, the most robust).
Disulphide bonds connect sulphur atoms of cysteine residues, dictating the hair's rigidity and direction. Modification of the brow's shape is impossible without breaking these bonds within the hair cortex. The cuticle must be opened to allow reducing agents to penetrate this central zone.
Mechanism of thioglycolate
Ethanolamine thioglycolate (ETG) is the primary reducing agent in the Classic Brow Bomb. The ethanolamine version offers slower reaction kinetics than ammonium thioglycolate, which is considered too aggressive for the periorbital area. A pH between 9.0 and 9.5 causes the cuticle to swell and scales to open. The reduction reaction is modelled as follows:
K-S-S-K + 2R-SH → 2K-SH + R-S-S-R
This transforms the hair from a rigid structure into a malleable matrix, allowing it to adopt the shape imposed by professional brushing.
The Brow Bomb classic system
Step 1: lifting cream
An alkaline emulsion (pH 9.0-9.5) featuring: Ethanolamine Thioglycolate, Urea (as a penetration enhancer), Cocoa Seed Butter, Biotin, Niacinamide, and hydrolysed rice, wheat, and soy proteins. The cocoa butter forms a lipid film to limit dehydration, while biotin and niacinamide reinforce the keratin fibre against oxidative stress.
Step 2: innovative neutralising cream
Sodium bromate (NaBrO₃) at pH 6.0-6.5 reforms the S-S bonds through oxidation. It contains glass microbeads (5-50 microns) which act as mechanical ball bearings to physically separate hairs, preventing them from fusing together or creating a "tarantula" effect. It also includes Panthenol (Provitamin B5) and Hyaluronic Acid for multi-layer rehydration.
Step 3: moisturising serum
A leave-in treatment to seal the cuticle and restore homeostasis. Actives include Aloe Vera (soothing), Marshmallow Extract (detangling), Arnica Montana (anti-inflammatory), and Horsetail Extract (remineralising).
K-Bomb: the cysteamine alternative
K-Bomb replaces ethanolamine thioglycolate with Cysteamine Hydrochloride, a derivative of cysteine (which constitutes 10-18% of human keratin). This similarity allows for biocompatible remodelling without strong alkaline stress.
- pH level: 7.5 - 8.5 (significantly gentler than the 9.0-9.5 of the classic system).
- Copper peptides: Stimulate collagen production and prolong the anagen (growth) phase by increasing perifollicular vascularisation.
- Antioxidant flavonoids: Quercetin and fisetin protect follicles from environmental damage and neutralise oxidative stress.
Application protocols and timing
| Hair condition | Step 1 pose time | Step 2 pose time |
|---|---|---|
| Very fine or bleached hair | 3-4 minutes | 5 minutes |
| Fine or previously tinted hair | 4-5 minutes | 5 minutes |
| Natural, healthy hair (medium) | 5-6 minutes | 6 minutes |
| Thick, coarse or stubborn hair | 6-7 minutes | 6 minutes |
The mid-process suppleness test
Perform this check at 50% of the planned pose time. If the hair bends to 90° without resistance, remove product immediately. Warning signs requiring urgent removal include an ammonia odour, hair bleaching, or chaotic frizzing.
Safety and regulatory compliance
Mandatory patch test: 48-72 hours before service to detect the 2-5% of clients allergic to thioglycolate. Apply to the crook of the elbow or behind the ear.
Contraindications
- Absolute: Active eye/skin infections, open lesions, positive patch test, and recent Isotretinoin (Roaccutane) use (must wait 6 months).
- Relative: Pregnancy/breastfeeding (hormonal changes affect hair texture - K-Bomb preferred), recent eye surgery (wait 6 weeks), recent microblading (wait 4 weeks).
EU Regulation 1223/2009: Brow Bomb is a certified protocol : CPNP registered and GMP certified. SDS/MSDS sheets document all toxicological profiles.
Post-lamination maintenance
The 48-hour rule is critical for S-S bond consolidation:
- Zero water/steam: Prevents premature cuticle swelling.
- Zero oils/makeup: Avoids interference with protein fixation.
- Sleep position: Sleeping on the back avoids mechanical distortion of the new shape.