Neutralising Step 2
Neutralising Step 2: the lock of brow lamination
TECHNICAL GUIDE FOR BEAUTY THERAPISTS
The essentials
The neutralising lotion Step 2 permanently sets the brow shape in lamination. It closes the hair cuticles opened by Step 1 and locks the new curve. Without it, brows drop back in 7-14 days. Key timing: 3-4 min (fine brows), 5-6 min (natural), 6-7 min (coarse). A timing error = failed result (brittle brows or shape loss).
Why is step 2 essential?
The lifting cream Step 1 opens the hair cuticles and breaks internal bonds (disulphide bridges) to make brows malleable. The neutraliser reconstructs these bonds in the new brushed-up position. It also brings the hair pH back to neutrality (6-6.5), which closes the cuticles and seals hydrating ingredients inside.
Without neutralisation, two scenarios:
- Under-neutralisation: Brows return to their original shape within a week.
- Over-neutralisation: Hairs become stiff, brittle, and break.
How does the neutraliser work?
The key ingredient: sodium bromate
Sodium bromate is the oxidising agent that reconstructs the disulphide bonds broken by Step 1. It acts like a chemical lock: it sets the hair bonds in their new configuration. Beautiful Brows and Lashes formulates its neutraliser at pH 6-6.5, close to the natural hair pH (4.5-5.5), to avoid further aggression.
Why this ph?
A neutral pH naturally tightens the hair cuticles, like a door closing after Step 1 has passed through. Too acidic (< 5) causes a brutal closure that blocks actives. Too alkaline (> 7) keeps cuticles open, leading to chronic dehydration.
The repairing actives
Beautiful Brows neutraliser also contains:
- Panthenol (Provitamin B5): Repairs micro-lesions in cuticles.
- Hyaluronic acid: Holds 1000x its weight in water to hydrate the cortex.
- Cocoa butter: Immediately smooths the hair surface.
- Plant extracts: Liquorice and horsetail to soothe the fragile epidermis.
Precise timing: no more mistakes
| Brow type | Characteristics | Step 2 time | Common mistake |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fine brows | Sparse hairs, transparent, low density | 3-4 min | Leaving 5 min = stiffness, breakage |
| Tinted brows | Fine hairs already coloured (classic tint) | 4-5 min | Increased porosity, rapid absorption |
| Natural brows | Medium density, never chemically treated | 5-6 min | Standard timing, low risk |
| Coarse brows | Dense hairs, strong keratinisation | 6-7 min | Removing too early = shape return in 10 days |
Complete protocol in 5 steps
- Remove the lifting cream: Use a dry cotton bud (never damp) following the hair direction. Wipe gently to avoid breaking still-fragile hairs.
- Apply the neutraliser: Use a disposable micro-applicator. Start with the brow tail, progress towards the arch, and finish on the brow head. Apply in a generous, non-dripping layer.
- Respect timing: Refer to the table. NEVER exceed 7 minutes, even on very coarse brows, to avoid irreversible over-oxidation.
- Remove the neutraliser: Two passes with a dry cotton bud. Brows must be clean, non-sticky, and without a white film.
- Tint or step 3: If tinting, apply now. Otherwise, go directly to Step 3 Moisturising Serum to seal hydration.
Tint: before or after neutraliser?
Answer: ALWAYS after Step 2. Cuticles freshly closed by the neutraliser absorb pigments twice as fast as untreated hair. Hybrid tint processing time drops from 8-10 min to 4-5 min.
Applying tint before Step 2 is incorrect as the neutraliser would dilute pigments and the sodium bromate would oxidise colourants unpredictably, leading to uneven results.
The 3 mistakes that ruin everything
1. Under-neutralisation
Symptom: Brows return to original shape in 7-14 days.
Cause: Step 2 removed before complete bond fixation.
2. Over-neutralisation
Symptom: Stiff, brittle, dull brows.
Cause: Processing time > 7 min. Irreversible; hair must grow back naturally.
3. Skipping step 2
Symptom: Extreme dehydration, drop in 24h.
Cause: Cuticles remain open, pH stays alkaline.
Precautions & contraindications
A mandatory patch test must be performed 24-48 hours before. Mix 1 drop of Step 1 + 1 drop of Step 2 and monitor for redness or swelling.
Who cannot have brow lamination?
- Pregnancy & breastfeeding (precautionary principle).
- Active infections (conjunctivitis, eye herpes, folliculitis).
- Psoriasis or eczema in active phase.
- Recent LASIK surgery (wait 6 weeks).
- Recent microblading (wait 4 weeks).
- Under 16 years old.
Storage & conservation
Beautiful Brows packages Step 2 in 1.5 ml sachets (approx. 3-4 clients per sachet).
- Before opening: Store at 15-25°C away from direct light.
- After opening: 7 days max in fridge, resealed with micropore tape. For patch tests, 14 days max.
- Expiry signal: Yellowish colour, phase separation, or unusual smell.